You can use any of the bases with any of the connectors and any of the grip, holder or support ends.
Gridfinity Module as a Tentacle Base
You can use the Gridfinity tentacle base with any Gridfinity baseplate. The model name is “1×1 Tentacle Base”.
Or, you can use it with one of these standalone Gridfinity bases:
A Gridfinity Tentacle Base is works very well because the magnets keep your stand upright even if it is not balanced (until the magnets are overcome).
There are a variety of other bases you can use for a tentacle support.
Three-leg base (Tribase)
Three angled legs lead up to a mounting ball. The three legs guarantee it will be stable even on uneven surfaces. It works great with the webcam holder, for example.
Large flat base
This large, flat base is formed from a grid of hexagons mainly to minimize the use of filament but also because it looks more interesting than a simple flat plate.
This base has a smooth, round bottom you can glue onto something else, or attach adhesive velcro, etc. You could also use it in other models that need a base for connecting tentacle parts. But, there is also a .step file for just the ball and just the cup, specifically so you can include it in your models.
This base holds twelve 6×2 neodymium magnets so you can attach this base to any steel surface. For example, it could hold a light against the inside of a computer case or a washing machine. Some keychain LED lights are incredibly bright, such as this one. And, it works great with the webcam holder.
This base fits into the hexagonal hole at the top of Z-axis on most Prusa printers. If you find it is too loose you can cut the edge of the small hexigon with a sharp knife, to deform the plastic a little and add friction to the fit. It is based on my Z-Topper Filament Cutter, which I use all the time.
This base fits into the oblong hexagonal hole on the side of the printed part that slides up and down the Z-axis and holds the X-axis belt’s freewheel side. It is based on the Z-Rider which I mainly use to move one of Schnippi‘s Kodamas up and down during my prints. For… reasons. Perhaps this could be a mount for a small webcam, but it would vibrate whenever the X axis moved.
Honeycomb Storage Wall Base
This base hangs on an IKEA Skådis pegboard.
Large Binder Clip Tentacle Monster
This base secures to anything that a large binder clip can attach to. See Large Binder Clip Tentacle Monster below in connectors.
Tentacle Rail Clip Base
This base includes a clip that attaches to the T-Slots in the aluminum extrusions used in Prusa and other 3D printers. Used in combination with the camera holder, this allows you to position a webcam exactly where you want on either the side of the print bed.
This model includes several components than can be used or not, as needed. You can print more parts if you need them. You may also use any of the parts in the Connector Kit (below) as well.
If the vibration of the printer causes the camera to shift position, you might need to glue some of the connectors together.
This simple model provides a base. You can screw it to the wall or any other surface using a panhead or drywall screw or other fastener with a chamfered or filleted underside.
It is extra thick and has a much denser infill to resist cracking, but do not over-tighten the fastener to avoid damaging the print.
Binder Clip Bases
You slide one of the metal handles of a binder clip into one of these bases so you can use the binder clip to hold onto anything that fits. Binder clips have a lot of closing force.
There is one model designed to hold a medium binder clip and a separate model designed for large binder clips.
This component lets you attach those ad hoc stands to a Multiboard.
You can learn all about the Multiboard system here: https://www.multiboard.io/
Zip Tie Bases
There are two different zip tie bases: one for cylinders that looks like a Y and one for other shapes that accepts zip ties in two orientations. They are all part of the Tentacle Zip Tie Kit. The bases are called Tentacle Ziptie Base and Tentacle Ziptie Minibase.
This is a configurable base. Used in combination with the Connector Kit, you can build a durable base to hold up to eight tentacles.
There are two regular ball bases and six stumps that each end in a pin compatible with the Connector Kit.
The shape helps keep the center of gravity in a position to stabilize a longer tentacle. If necessary it is easy to add weight to the opposite side, for example with a series of washers or nuts slid over an extension, or attached to a magnetic grip.
You can arrange a collection of grips and rotate the entire base to bring the most useful ones into your workspace. You can pick up the entire collection by the head with a single hand to move or store it.
Googly eyes are optional, but recommended; however, they should be different sizes.
This base attaches using 4mm hardware. The nut fits inside a slot and the bolt attaches to it through a hole in the bottom. The washer is optional. If you use a washer, it would go on the inside of the object behind attached, just under the bolt head. Don’t over-tighten the the bolt. Over-tightening can cause layers to separate and cause a crack by the nut.
This base attaches to a 2×8 lego brick. There is also a Lego grip.
These print without supports as two pieces each. You can superglue the two parts together easily by simply aligning the edges.
The reality of FDM-printed Lego parts is that they don’t fit nearly as well as actual lego bricks fit because the printer has an accuracy of about 1/3mm and the pieces are designed for an accuracy much, much smaller than that. It would work with a resin printer.
For an FDM printer you might need to scale up or down the part that attaches to lego bricks. The other part (the grip or base) must not be scaled or it won’t work with the tentacle system. In both models the part that attaches to the lego bricks is quick to print by itself so you can try a few different scales to see what works for your printer.
Specifications from: https://www.bartneck.de/2019/04/21/lego-brick-dimensions-and-measurements/
This base works with Fischertechnik components. There is also a Fischertechnik grip. This part lets you attach tentacles to a Fischertechnik model. For example, to hold a webcam using the camera grip.
These print as two pieces each. You superglue the two parts together to make a complete base or grip.
You might notice that there is no peg for attaching into the slots of Fischertechnik pieces. There are only slots on these Tentacle System parts. That is because the pegs would just break off. And, there is no slot on the ends. That is because both parts are radially symmetrical so you can just rotate it by 90º if you need a slot on the “side”.
The reality of FDM-printed Fischertechnik parts is that they don’t fit nearly as well as actual Fischertechnik parts fit because the printer has an accuracy of about 1/3mm and the pieces are designed for an accuracy much, much smaller than that. It would work with a resin printer.
For an FDM printer you might need to scale up or down the part that attaches to Fischertechnik bricks. The other part (the grip or base) must not be scaled or it won’t work with the tentacle system. In both models the part that attaches to the Fischertechnik parts is fairly quick to print by itself, so you can try a few different scales to see what works for your printer.
More Fischertechnik Bases
Over on Printables, Juh created his own remixes of these parts, and they are really cool!
This base attaches to a pegboard hanger, or any cylindrical object up to 20mm in diameter.
Pill Bottle Weighted Base
This component screws into a 48mm pill bottle. Fill it with sand or water for a weighted base.